Your Simple Guide to Maui

Maui is a special island. Not just because we honeymooned there, or because two of our favorite people live there (my best friend and her husband who we also love). There’s something special about Hawaiian culture, the melting pot of people that make up the island, the tenacious spirit of those who guard the most beautiful and sacred places. 

An example of one such person is Uncle Jimmy, who owns the cove with the best snorkeling on the island. He keeps the space open to tourists, advising them on the best spots to snorkel, but also ferociously protects the sanctity of his land. It’s beautiful, the hospitality that demands respect. 

About this Guide

This is a comprehensive guide to Maui. This should be your first and one of only stops when planning your trip.

From what to do on your trip to Maui, from where to go to our favorite food spots, keep reading because this is definitely for you!

Towns to Visit

Pa’ia

We’re going to start in Pa’ia because we have to start somewhere. Pa’ia is the Lahaina of the north in terms of cute tourist shops and restaurants, but about 475% smaller. That number may be made up, but I think it might be accurate. Lahaina has always felt a bit overwhelming to me. Too many shops that sell the same thing in a 2-sq mile radius. Pa’ia has all the cute tourist shops and snacks, but the whole town is just two short streets. 

Ho’okipa beach is also in Pa’ia, and this is a must-see beach during your Maui trip. Ho’okipa beach is Maui’s turtles’ favorite beach, and on any given day you’ll see a dozen turtles snoozing by the rocks on the beach. The turtle area is roped off, and please do respect those barriers as they’re there to protect the wildlife, but you’ll get a clear view. We love sitting on the wall above the turtles and just watching them do absolutely nothing. 

Last time we were there, we also saw a seal hanging out on the beach. This is also a popular beach for surfing and windsurfing, and the waves can get huge. We don’t do either of those things, but we definitely enjoy watching those who do.

Makawao

Did you know that there are cowboys in Maui? An influx of Portuguese immigrants came to the island over 100 years ago, and they settled Up Country and became Maui’s cowboys, called Paniolos. Makawao even has a famous rodeo that happens every year in July, and if you happen to be on the island at that time you will want to go. 

Makawao also has adorable tourist shops, the best bakery on the island (Komoda Bakery), and restaurants. It’s a great place to walk around, do a little shopping, and grab a bite to eat. A word of advice for Komoda Bakery, get there early. Very early. Their donuts sell out within a couple hours of opening. And they also have the best Hawaiian rolls I have ever eaten in my life. I could live off those things. 

If you’re looking for good Italian food, Serpico’s in Makawao is very good, and they serve amazing and ginormous calzones. 

Hana

You can learn more about Hana HERE. You won’t want to miss it. It’s an entire experience just to get there, so I had to make a whole other blog post about it!

Lahaina

Lahaina is the spot for tourists. It has loads of restaurants, shops, activities, boating, beaches, hotels and just everything you need on your tourist vacation. We have never stayed in Lahaina, and don’t love spending too much time there, but you won’t want to miss it on your first trip. 

Here are my favorite things about Lahaina: The big banyan tree in front of the courthouse, the historical stops (mostly found on Front Street), and whale watching.

Lahaina was once a busy whaling port and royal Hawaiian power seat, so there is definitely more than enough history to see. The Lahaina Historical Walking Tour includes 28 stops, and while we haven’t done it ourselves several guides recommend it. 

Because Lahaina is so big with so much to do, I recommend you check out their website to plan your visit and not miss anything. 

What to do 

Road to Hana

The Road to Hana is my #1 “Don’t Miss It” thing to do in Maui. It’s a full-day experience, and deserves its own blog post. Read my Hana Guide to plan your trip!

Haleakala

Haleakala is a dormant shield volcano with one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. 

The volcano is protected as a national park, and it’s a popular place to catch a Maui sunrise but does require reservations, which are nearly impossible to get. After 7 AM, you no longer need reservations. Sunrise is so popular because it’s the clearest time of the day to get gorgeous views of the whole island. You can even see the surrounding islands on a clear day. 

We have never secured a sunrise reservation, but we have been to the top for sunset and it was incredible. While it seemed like the view would be covered by clouds, it cleared up a bit just as the sun was setting and we got those amazing Haleakala views everyone talks about. So don’t let a cloudy forecast scare you. If you don’t get the elusive sunrise reservation, you should still go up to Haleakala and explore everything else the volcano has to offer, and you might just get a gorgeous sunset view.

Learn more about the park and volcano, check out the hikes (including the crater hike!) and make reservations HERE. 

West Maui’s North Shore

West Maui’s North Shore has been called West Maui’s Road to Hana, but it really is something all of its own.  The road is maybe what the Road to Hana was 30 years ago. It’s wild, and near Kahakuloa it gets too narrow to be safe. If you don’t like that kind of thing, this isn’t for you. We thought it was awesome. 

A couple of stops you won’t want to miss on the way: Nakalele Blowhole and the Olivine Pools (also called the mermaid pools, which you’ve likely seen on Instagram more than once). 

We also fell in love with Kahakuloa. I’m pretty sure Doug is ready to retire and move there right now. It’s a small, quiet village (no honking!), with some low-key local shops selling banana bread and shaved ice. Notice that these are closed on Mondays, so that may not be the right day to visit. The village is nestled in a luscious valley. If you drive past the village, you’ll go up towards Kahakuloa Head and get amazing views. You’ll also come to Karen Lei’s Gallery, which I think is a great place to buy higher-quality souvenirs like art and jewelry. I absolutely loved so many of the pieces in the gallery. 

Whale Watching

Whale watching season in Maui is amazing. Humpbacks breed and give birth in Maui, so during peak season (January – April), you’ll also likely see calves. 

I am obsessed with whales, and after our most recent whale watching experience in Maui I can say with 100% certainty that it is worth it. We saw dozens breaches, including a calf breech. Amazing.

We did our tour with Ultimate Whale Watch and Snorkel. When you whale watch, you want to make sure you’re not on a huge boat, and I loved the rafts used by the company. It felt much more intimate and it was easy to see all sides of the boat. 

To luau or not to luau? 

In short, I recommend going to a Luau your first time on the island. After that, I don’t really think it’s something worth doing. A local hack is to get discounted Luau tickets at Costco.  

We’ve only been to the Luau at Grand Wailea Resort & Spa, as these were the discounted tickets we found at Costco, so I can’t recommend one Luau over the other. We really enjoyed our experience at the Grand Wailea. 

To read about some of the popular luaus in Maui, go HERE. 

Snorkel

Snorkeling on Maui is fun because you’re going to see cool turtles, and we love turtles. The reefs are not amazing, as over-tourism and lack of protection has really done a number on them. The best reef is found in Honolua Bay, but keep in mind that snorkeling at the bay is usually super murky during the winter. Summer and fall are the best seasons for snorkeling at that location. 

We really enjoy snorkeling at Kapalua Bay Beach and Maluaka Beach as well. 

If it’s your first time visiting Maui, I do recommend a snorkel tour to Molokini. It’s a fun boat trip and you’ll see a host of beautiful fish at the small crater island. I also recommend, and it’s what we’ve done in our subsequent visits, that you bring your own snorkel gear or rent snorkel gear from a place like Boss Frog’s. All the snorkel spots I listed above are accessible from the beach. 

You can learn more about Maui snorkel locations HERE. 

Where to eat

Nalu’s South Shore Grill

Nalu’s is located in Kihei and it really is so good. Their menu is a fun take on island favorites and American cuisine. It’s a great place for a fun brunch, and they serve breakfast and lunch dishes as well. My favorites are their cornflake french toast and Korean bulgogi burger. 

Colleen’s at the Cannery

Colleen’s is located in Haiku in an old pineapple cannery and is such a great breakfast spot. Their menu is pretty typical, serving plates like Eggs Benedict and breakfast burritos, but the flavor is so on point. It’s much more local, as not a lot of tourists stay in that area, and their food tastes homegrown. The drinks there are also delicious. 

I’ve never had lunch or dinner at Colleen’s, but if it’s anything like breakfast then 10/10 recommend. 

Kahului Food Trucks Near Costco

Food trucks really had their moment during Covid, and they’re here to stay. Food Trucks have always been popular, of course, but now there are more and we love it. The food truck park near Costco has amazing options like Thai, fish tacos, gourmet and creative french fries and even pasta. 

Be aware that food truck does not equal cheap. 

Hula Grill at Whalers Village

Hula Grill has delicious food, but here’s why I had to add it to this list: While enjoying a late lunch/early dinner at Hula Grill, we saw approximately eight whale breeches right from our table. It was absolutely amazing. 

I also love that we eat with our toes in the sand, and their fresh seafood really does taste, well, fresh. Whalers Village is a very popular outdoor shopping mall with upscale stores, and it gets very full, so I recommend making advanced reservations especially if you expect to eat at a regular meal time (instead of at, say, 3:15 PM, which is when we went and got a table within 20 minutes). 

Where to stay

Most of the hotels will be located in the Lahaina or Wailea areas. Maui has beautiful hotels, with great amenities and beaches. 

We’ve only ever stayed on the north side of the island, however. The first time on Maui we found an adorable jungle bungalow in Haiku on AirBnb (no longer listed), and the other times on the island we’ve stayed with friends and family. 

Be aware, though, that this will be the most expensive part of your Maui vacation. Especially during heavy tourist seasons, AirBnb’s can go for $800/night. This is one of the reasons we won’t be going back to Maui now that our family is moving away. I can’t justify the price. 

Renting a car

A lot of tourists like to recommend the convertible Jeep Wranglers. They’re large and just scream adventure. 

They also scream tourist. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with that, but especially in a place like Maui, where locals have a complicated relationship with tourism, it’s always nice to drive something that just fits in a little more. Also, unlike some people will tell you, you absolutely do not need a Jeep to do the Road to Hana. We’ve done it in a small Kia, a hatchback, a CR-V, and have never had any problems. I would argue that it’s even easier to do Maui in a smaller car, especially if you plan to drive the West North Shore. 

Tips to Cut Costs

Maui can be very expensive, especially once you add accommodations and car rental to the tab. You know we’re all about making travel as accessible as possible, and that includes making sure you can make your trip affordable. Some tips to help reduce costs on Maui:

• Get a place on AirBnb, this will likely be cheaper than a hotel
• Rent a smaller car, you’ll save on rental price and gas
• Only fill up at Costco (and go early, because everyone else also only fills up at Costco)
• Do a big shopping trip at Costco and only eat out once a day
• Stay away from restaurants on Front Street (Lahaina) and Paia, as these are popular with tourists and likely would be more expensive. Kihei, Kahului, Makawao all have some great spots that will be more affordable

We have loved every single one of our visits to Maui, and I hope this guide helps you plan your Maui vacation so that you fall in love with the island as much as we did.